In my post on lemon there is a photo showing where to tap 12V. The fan linked in my write up runs at 8dBA at 12V and comes with little rubber grommets that pull through the mounting holes once you bore them out slightly, so the fan is suspended on the rubber and does not easily couple its vibrations to the chassis. At 10CFM it should be able to turn over the air inside the case several times per minute, which should be a vast improvement over the original convection cooling. In a quiet room it is inaudible. Justin On May 15, 2012, at 9:57, silverdr@wfmh.org.pl wrote: > > On 2012-05-15, at 14:45, Gerrit Heitsch wrote: > >>>> The most quick'n dirty approach that worked surprisingly well was to >>>> drive 12V fans with 5V (or 6-7 when 5 was too little to give the fan >>>> good spin) and still having enough airflow to keep the temperature at >>>> reasonable level with enormously reduced noise. >>> >>> Yeah, connect the fan between the 12V and 5V rails, and if it fails in >>> short circuit, it will take all the 5V circuitry as collateral damage. I >>> am not sure if that has ever happened to anyone, though. It would not be >>> a big loss on PC hardware, but we are talking C= valuables here. :-) >> >> If you want to be on the safe side, grab a LM317, set it up as an adjustable regulator and hook it between +12V from the PSU and the fan, then adjust to the desired noise level. Should be possible for less than 2 Euros if you don't have all the parts handy already. > > Exactly. If 5V was not enough (which wasn't that often as it might seem to be) I always derived desired voltage from the original 12. > > -- > SD! > Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing list Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing listReceived on 2012-05-15 16:00:05
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