Hi, I have used it on a C128. The case I have done with the gel (xantan gum,glycerin,h2o2 and oxi). Very important is not to use stronger than 6%. Someone mentiones 3% which is even safer but slower. I have used the sun as UV source and applied a foil on it not to dry (the foil helps a lot!). If the gel dries then you will have white areas where the h2o2 becomes stronger so be careful! It is very important not to let it dry out (reapply gel every hour or more often) ! My result is very good. Because of this drying problem the keys must be whitened only with the liquid version and using UV bulb. Otherwise the letters can fade. I have an UVA bulb (black 20W energy saver) and it works fine. When you whiten the keys you have to use a transparent box in which you have the liquid and the bulb lights it from the bottom. This is needed because the keys will face down when you put them in the liquid. Istvan -----Original Message----- From: firstname.lastname@example.org Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2012 9:46 PM To: email@example.com Subject: Re: Retr0bright On 2012-10-07, at 20:37, Justin wrote: > I've used it on a bunch of C128DCR parts. It works well, but is kind of a > pain to clean off. I found that the best way to do it was to disassemble > whatever plastic casing or parts completely, coat them in the goo, leave > them out in the sun for a couple hours, Well... in some locations it is quite difficult to find couple hours of intensive sunlight. Especially during the months we are currently passing through. That leaves a properly chosen artificial UV source as the only remaining choice. Just what lamp to use.. Aquarium algae killer? Nail cover hardener? EPROM eraser? Money tester? ? They seem to be all different in their UV characteristics.. -- SD! Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing list Message was sent through the cbm-hackers mailing listReceived on 2012-10-07 21:00:23
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